Where to?: Semana Santeando

Palm Sunday, Domingo de Ramos. D-day for Claire and Semana Santa in Málaga. I've been prepped for this. I've had exclamations of surprise followed by expressions of shock and sadness when I inform people that indeed I have not seen Semana Santa here. I've had explanations of thrones and cofradías, examples of costumes, Christ sculptures, and Virgen sculpures. Overall, I was ecstatic about this eccentric and excellent holiday!

(Okay no more. I promise.)

Will be glad to field your inquiries.

As it has taken a solid 18 months for me to vaguely understand Semana Santa customs here in Málaga, I refer you to your next available Andaluz or to a trusted and infallible source of information, Wikipedia.

Cofradía de la Salud.

On Sunday José and I went out to see the processions. We started off in the Parroquía de San Pablo, the church there, to see them remove the throne, which is a big, elaborate sculpture of Jesus and Mary which they take out and parade around the streets during Holy Week. As the throne is large and the church is small, the brothers (members of the cofradía) have to get on their knees when passing through the door to get the throne out.

Virgen de la Cofradía del Huerto

After that we walked the streets for a bit then went up to Jose's dad's office, which is luckily on the same street where they pass with the thrones. That way we got out of the crowds and could sit for a bit. We saw lots of thrones pass.

We then met up with José's sister, Marta, and went around the city. Eventually, we went inside the cathedral to see the procession walk through the cathedral. (Sidenote: In all the time I've been here, that was the first time I've set foot in the cathedral. A classic case of "Eh, I'll go next weekend.")

Cofradía de la Salud in the Cathedral

The head of the cofradía enters the cathedral and asks permission of the bishop to enter. (Seño, se puede?) Then, the procession moves inside, walking around the cathedral. The effect of such a beautiful tradition in such a beautiful church is incredible. The scent of incense permeates up to the highest points of the ceiling and the candles glow with deep flickering shadows on the walls. The sound of each footstep reverberates through centuries of stone.

Lighting candles of the Virgen de la Salud.

By this time it was about 10 at night, clocking 8 hours on the Jesus route. We went to Calle Nueva to see the last of the Salud procession. It was stunning. As they turned the corner on the narrow, balcony-heavystreet, a man began singing a beautiful saeta, an Andalucían, flamenco-rooted religious song. When he stopped singing, people began throwing tons and tons of flower petals from the balconies. The candles threw off a halo of golden light around the figure of Mary, weeping.

Salud in Calle Nueva.

There, in the doorway of a shabby apartment building, I had a quick moment where I remembered what I was really seeing, appreciated what was in front of me. The band started playing again, the procession moved long, and so did we.

Wax from Semana Santa candles on Calle Granada.

We headed home up Calle Larios and the old part of town. Wax from the thousands of candles fell in drops all over the street, something which makes the cars screech as they brake and accelerate for the next few months. Flower petals and shells of sunflower seeds and chairs stacked like firewood and street sweepers and cigarette butts.

It was a great introduction to Semana Santa.

Here are some more photos and videos of the scene.