So last post I quickly recapped Semana Santa. Processions, crowds, sunflower seeds, etc. My roommate Eugenia sings fabulous copla, which are Andalucían folk songs. Her village, Villanueva de Córdoba, had processions this year and she belted out a great saeta from her balcony. The other videos on the YouTube channel are her singing at different contests and events. If she gets famous, remember, you heard about it from me first!
Here she is:
miércoles, 27 de abril de 2011
martes, 26 de abril de 2011
Semana Santeando
Palm Sunday, Domingo de Ramos. D-day for Claire and Semana Santa in Málaga. I've been prepped for this. I've had exclamations of surprise followed by expressions of shock and sadness when I inform people that indeed I have not seen Semana Santa here. I've had explanations of thrones and cofradías, examples of costumes, Christ sculptures, and Virgen sculpures. Overall, I was ecstatic about this eccentric and excellent holiday!
(Okay no more. I promise.)
As it has taken a solid 18 months for me to vaguely understand Semana Santa customs here in Málaga, I refer you to your next available Andaluz or to a trusted and infallible source of information, Wikipedia.
On Sunday José and I went out to see the processions. We started off in the Parroquía de San Pablo, the church there, to see them remove the throne, which is a big, elaborate sculpture of Jesus and Mary which they take out and parade around the streets during Holy Week. As the throne is large and the church is small, the brothers (members of the cofradía) have to get on their knees when passing through the door to get the throne out.
After that we walked the streets for a bit then went up to Jose's dad's office, which is luckily on the same street where they pass with the thrones. That way we got out of the crowds and could sit for a bit. We saw lots of thrones pass.
We then met up with José's sister, Marta, and went around the city. Eventually, we went inside the cathedral to see the procession walk through the cathedral. (Sidenote: In all the time I've been here, that was the first time I've set foot in the cathedral. A classic case of "Eh, I'll go next weekend.")
The head of the cofradía enters the cathedral and asks permission of the bishop to enter. (Seño, se puede?) Then, the procession moves inside, walking around the cathedral. The effect of such a beautiful tradition in such a beautiful church is incredible. The scent of incense permeates up to the highest points of the ceiling and the candles glow with deep flickering shadows on the walls. The sound of each footstep reverberates through centuries of stone.
By this time it was about 10 at night, clocking 8 hours on the Jesus route. We went to Calle Nueva to see the last of the Salud procession. It was stunning. As they turned the corner on the narrow, balcony-heavystreet, a man began singing a beautiful saeta, an Andalucían, flamenco-rooted religious song. When he stopped singing, people began throwing tons and tons of flower petals from the balconies. The candles threw off a halo of golden light around the figure of Mary, weeping.
There, in the doorway of a shabby apartment building, I had a quick moment where I remembered what I was really seeing, appreciated what was in front of me. The band started playing again, the procession moved long, and so did we.
We headed home up Calle Larios and the old part of town. Wax from the thousands of candles fell in drops all over the street, something which makes the cars screech as they brake and accelerate for the next few months. Flower petals and shells of sunflower seeds and chairs stacked like firewood and street sweepers and cigarette butts.
It was a great introduction to Semana Santa.
Here are some more photos and videos of the scene.
(Author's note: Sorry about the long time between entries. This week I've been extra busy! I promise more soon.)
(Okay no more. I promise.)
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| Will be glad to field your inquiries. |
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| Cofradía de la Salud. |
On Sunday José and I went out to see the processions. We started off in the Parroquía de San Pablo, the church there, to see them remove the throne, which is a big, elaborate sculpture of Jesus and Mary which they take out and parade around the streets during Holy Week. As the throne is large and the church is small, the brothers (members of the cofradía) have to get on their knees when passing through the door to get the throne out.
 |
| Virgen de la Cofradía del Huerto |
We then met up with José's sister, Marta, and went around the city. Eventually, we went inside the cathedral to see the procession walk through the cathedral. (Sidenote: In all the time I've been here, that was the first time I've set foot in the cathedral. A classic case of "Eh, I'll go next weekend.") |
| Cofradía de la Salud in the Cathedral |
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| Lighting candles of the Virgen de la Salud. |
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| Salud in Calle Nueva. |
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| Wax from Semana Santa candles on Calle Granada. |
It was a great introduction to Semana Santa.
Here are some more photos and videos of the scene.
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| Balloons. |
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| Men hoisting the thrones. |
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| Calle Carretería. |
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| Not the KKK, but religious folk. |
viernes, 15 de abril de 2011
Torrijas: Part one in an occasional series of recipes
Spain has awesome food. Lacking in the spicy department, but excelling in pretty much every other department. Stealing an idea from Bradley, I will be unveiling a new occasional series of recipes.
This recipe, torrijas, is traditionally eaten around Semana Santa time. Pay close attention, it may ring a bell.
Torrijas
1 loaf of day-old bread, cut into thick slices
Half a liter of milk
Cinnamon
2 eggs
sugar
olive oil
Mix in a shallow bowl the milk and cinnamon, adding as much as you like. In another shallow bowl, beat the 2 eggs. Heat a good amount of olive oil over medium-high heat until it begins to smoke a bit and smell like olives. Soak a slice of bread in the milk until it's dripping but not totally soaked. Dip in egg, coating each side. Fry for a few minutes on each side until golden-brown. Add sugar.
Serve hot or cold.
This may sound very familiar. It is. It's essentially...
FRENCH TOAST!!!!
But with olive oil instead of butter, whose life or death battle will be the subject of my next entry.
Feliz Semana Santa!
This recipe, torrijas, is traditionally eaten around Semana Santa time. Pay close attention, it may ring a bell.
 |
| La merca also sells ready-to-torrijar bread. |
1 loaf of day-old bread, cut into thick slices
Half a liter of milk
Cinnamon
2 eggs
sugar
olive oil
Mix in a shallow bowl the milk and cinnamon, adding as much as you like. In another shallow bowl, beat the 2 eggs. Heat a good amount of olive oil over medium-high heat until it begins to smoke a bit and smell like olives. Soak a slice of bread in the milk until it's dripping but not totally soaked. Dip in egg, coating each side. Fry for a few minutes on each side until golden-brown. Add sugar.
Serve hot or cold.
This may sound very familiar. It is. It's essentially...
FRENCH TOAST!!!!
But with olive oil instead of butter, whose life or death battle will be the subject of my next entry.
Feliz Semana Santa!
domingo, 10 de abril de 2011
A choice made for me
My mom is from Durango, Colorado. Smack dab in the middle of purple mountain majesty. My grandma lived in that same house in the same town for decades. Her back porch always had flower pots of red geraniums here and there. It was shaded by an oak tree, whose huge branches reached up past the roof. The alpine air was cool, the soil was dark and damp, and the geraniums let off a very particular scent that to this day, when passing by the flowers on a rainy day, move me back to that porch.
I'm six years old, barefoot, sunburned, all skinny legs with bruises and scrapes, my shorts and T-shirt are covered in grass stains. My brother and I are sprawled face down on the porch, the bones in my knees hitting the hard wood. With one eye closed I peek through a hole in the boards, looking to see if there are bee nests under there. The screen door slams in a disordered rhythm: a creek, a whoosh of air as the door was pulled open, one faint crack when it was released, and a slam shut. Someone appeared, someone went inside, then reappeared. All the while my grandmother sitting on the rocking couch thing with a cigarette, chatting with my mom. The air is heavy with moisture, a sharp hint of rain. The clouds are huddling low on the horizon, making their way off the mountains. A gust of wind blows, I am surrounded by the perfume of geraniums.
Grandma died when I was a junior in college. She was sick. I flew out to New Mexico to meet my parents and we were going to drive up to see her, and, I think we all knew, say goodbye. My mom got the call when I was picking them up from the airport. We were on the 25 cutting through Albuquerque. My dad jumped out of the front seat when my mom let out a cry, unbuckling his seatbelt and throwing himself in the backseat to be next to her. I rarely see him move so fast. She got the news, we missed her.
A few years later and an apartment in Málaga. My parents and brother came over for Christmas to visit. They used some of the funds from my grandmother's estate to pay for the trip. Grandma traveled lots when she was younger, to Egypt, to Mexico, to Australia, to China; it fit that she had a hand in our trip. On my parent's last day we drove down the coast towards Nerja. It was January but it was perfectly sunny and not as cold. We stopped and ate fried boquerones and espetos at a chiringuito, bathing in the sun like lizards. When I think of that day it's all weak, golden sun.
"What do you want for Christmas, Claire?" my mom asked from the backseat. I was shotgun, directing my dad towards the city. I have everything I want, what do I need a Christmas present for?
Just then we passed a plant nursery. It was open, despite it being January.
"Pull over, I'd love some plants for my patio."
Walking throughthe aisles I couldn't choose. Hibiscus, jasmine, spindly ferns and orange trees. They were all pretty. I rounded another row and saw them, lined up and in full bloom. There was never really any other choice.
With the spring weather and sun, they're blooming like mad and I smell them every day.
I'm six years old, barefoot, sunburned, all skinny legs with bruises and scrapes, my shorts and T-shirt are covered in grass stains. My brother and I are sprawled face down on the porch, the bones in my knees hitting the hard wood. With one eye closed I peek through a hole in the boards, looking to see if there are bee nests under there. The screen door slams in a disordered rhythm: a creek, a whoosh of air as the door was pulled open, one faint crack when it was released, and a slam shut. Someone appeared, someone went inside, then reappeared. All the while my grandmother sitting on the rocking couch thing with a cigarette, chatting with my mom. The air is heavy with moisture, a sharp hint of rain. The clouds are huddling low on the horizon, making their way off the mountains. A gust of wind blows, I am surrounded by the perfume of geraniums.
Grandma died when I was a junior in college. She was sick. I flew out to New Mexico to meet my parents and we were going to drive up to see her, and, I think we all knew, say goodbye. My mom got the call when I was picking them up from the airport. We were on the 25 cutting through Albuquerque. My dad jumped out of the front seat when my mom let out a cry, unbuckling his seatbelt and throwing himself in the backseat to be next to her. I rarely see him move so fast. She got the news, we missed her.
A few years later and an apartment in Málaga. My parents and brother came over for Christmas to visit. They used some of the funds from my grandmother's estate to pay for the trip. Grandma traveled lots when she was younger, to Egypt, to Mexico, to Australia, to China; it fit that she had a hand in our trip. On my parent's last day we drove down the coast towards Nerja. It was January but it was perfectly sunny and not as cold. We stopped and ate fried boquerones and espetos at a chiringuito, bathing in the sun like lizards. When I think of that day it's all weak, golden sun.
"What do you want for Christmas, Claire?" my mom asked from the backseat. I was shotgun, directing my dad towards the city. I have everything I want, what do I need a Christmas present for?
Just then we passed a plant nursery. It was open, despite it being January.
"Pull over, I'd love some plants for my patio."
Walking throughthe aisles I couldn't choose. Hibiscus, jasmine, spindly ferns and orange trees. They were all pretty. I rounded another row and saw them, lined up and in full bloom. There was never really any other choice.
sábado, 9 de abril de 2011
domingo, 3 de abril de 2011
New Royal Academya Oxpañol Spanglish Dictionario
Language is a bit like Darwinism: the strongest words survive. The things that are easiest, the most accurate, the most common, the most useful, earn a lasting place in our vernacular. One of the great things about English, in my opinion, is that we don't have an official body such as the Real Academia Española or the Euskaltzaindia or the Académie Française. These bodies exist to regulate their respective languages.They decide whether to admit new words, change grammar rules, modify spellings, etc. While this is a respectable mission, to maintain a book of rules about a language, in practice it has served to prevent a language from being a living, breathing, evolving part of life.
When Eric, a friend of mine from college, and I were visiting Paris last year, a guide of a walking tour we took was telling us about the Académie Française's recent goings-on. Apparently the group was worried about the word "weekend" encroaching into the French language. Adopting foreign words is very common, for example in English it is common to hear gazundheit, entourage, canyon, cigarette, rodeo, hamburger, or je ne sais quoi, in daily language. The Académie Française decided that weekend was to be replaced by the wordier le fin de la semaine. Therefore, when leaving work on Friday, it would be correct to say Avez un bon fin de la semaine! Slightly clumsier than Avez un bon week-end. In practice, this suggestion went over like a lead zeppelin (what's up German!). Le week-end was there to stay.
In English we permit just about everything. The auxiliar community here in Spain has been developing their own rules of the Spanglish language, a loose association of common, variable rules which may be compiled in the New Royal Academya Oxpañol Spanglish Dictionario. Entries under consideration:
1. Piso - to replace the cumbersome "apartment"
eg. You can come to my piso beforehand and then later we will go out.
2. Seño o profe - you may have thought that you were here to be a teacher, but you are a seño.
eg. Seño Javi no me dejaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!! Profe! Profe! Ven!!!!!!!!!
3. un toque- a practice related to mobile telephonic devices. You give the other person a call then after 1 or 2 rings, hang up. This practice prevents either party from being charged for said toque. This toque can indicate an affirmative response to a previous text, an "I'm outside your apartment" notification, a "call me back I'm out of credit," or other things.
eg. Give me a toque when you get here and I'll come down and meet you.
4. es que... - sets off an excusal phrase.
eg. I would have had this finished seño, pero es que I'm not good at English.
5. olvidared - this represents the common Spanglish -ed past tense ending. This pattern is constructed by taking the Spanish infinitive and adding the -ed ending.
This verb indicates the past tense of the action in Spanish, albeit with the English ending. Best said with a heavy American accent.
eg. I was going to tell him to bring the movie but I olvidared it.
6. estudiaring - like the Spanglish past tense, this present perfect verb is formed by taking the Spanish infinitive and adding the English -ing ending.
eg. I was estudiaring some verbs when he gave me a toque.
7. No pasa nada - No worries.
eg. I was going to get all my visa paperwork in on time and correctly filled out, but the guy at the foreigner's office took a half hour break, no pasa nada.
8. tipical eSpanish - this English phrase, written phonetically, is used by Spaniards to describe when they do typical Spanish things such as making a delicious paella for a Sunday lunch, dancing sevillanas or flamenco, talking loudly on public transportation, or to demonstrate their extensive knowledge of English.
eg. El domingo vamos a la playa y luego a un chiringuito que conozco por alli en El Palo, es muy tipical eSpanish.
9. Ok - meaning Okay. The most global word.
eg. I'll be there in five minutes, ok?
10. Vale - meaning okay. Its use is required in a minimum of 80 percent of Spanglish phrases.
eg. Vale, vale vale, ok, vale, venga, I'll talk to you later.
11. I'm fine thank you, and you? - the best and/or only response to the question "How are you?"
eg. How are you class? (in unison) I'm fine thank you, and you? Well class, it's 12:30 on a Monday, you guys can't sit the ef down after recreo, and I haven't had anything to eat yet. I'm tired and hungry. But thank you for collectively asking.
12. mitin - this phonetical spelling of the word "meeting" is used to indicate a high-level reunion of government or business officials. Who says anglophones don't know how to take care of bizness, we invented the word!
eg. Ayer se celebró un mitin del PP.
13. caña - Spanglish for 20 cl. of domestic draft beer usually had among friends in local bars.
eg. Tomorrow we can go for cañas beforehand and then go to the movies.
14. clases particulares - not particular classes, but private classes. These are the ubiquitous hour-long conversation classes that auxiliars have to earn extra cash and keep teaching skills sharp.
eg. I can get there by 6, I have a clase particular at 4:30.
15. take a coffee - a literal translation of the Spanish "tomar un café" this phrase has seeped into the Spanish language by the "if you can´t beat em, join em" effect of clases particulares. After hearing it so many times, you begin to say it yourself, undermining your credibility as a native speaker.
eg. This weekend? Let´s see, I saw a movie, took a coffee with somes friends...
This is by no means an exhaustive list, but a beginner's guide to the Spanglish language. It is recommendable to quitar these words from your vocabulary before returning to your country of origin, talking with your parents, taking LSATs or GREs, or interviewing for a job (Overheard in a certain someone's interview on Friday: "I hear at your English summer camp you have an granja on site. Can you tell me more?" Well, es que I don't know when I will be flying home, sometime in August. Vale, pues, I'll let you know when I have the exact dates".) In just a few short weeks of living in Spain, you too can make mistakes in both your second and native language!
When Eric, a friend of mine from college, and I were visiting Paris last year, a guide of a walking tour we took was telling us about the Académie Française's recent goings-on. Apparently the group was worried about the word "weekend" encroaching into the French language. Adopting foreign words is very common, for example in English it is common to hear gazundheit, entourage, canyon, cigarette, rodeo, hamburger, or je ne sais quoi, in daily language. The Académie Française decided that weekend was to be replaced by the wordier le fin de la semaine. Therefore, when leaving work on Friday, it would be correct to say Avez un bon fin de la semaine! Slightly clumsier than Avez un bon week-end. In practice, this suggestion went over like a lead zeppelin (what's up German!). Le week-end was there to stay.
In English we permit just about everything. The auxiliar community here in Spain has been developing their own rules of the Spanglish language, a loose association of common, variable rules which may be compiled in the New Royal Academya Oxpañol Spanglish Dictionario. Entries under consideration:
1. Piso - to replace the cumbersome "apartment"
eg. You can come to my piso beforehand and then later we will go out.
2. Seño o profe - you may have thought that you were here to be a teacher, but you are a seño.
eg. Seño Javi no me dejaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!! Profe! Profe! Ven!!!!!!!!!
3. un toque- a practice related to mobile telephonic devices. You give the other person a call then after 1 or 2 rings, hang up. This practice prevents either party from being charged for said toque. This toque can indicate an affirmative response to a previous text, an "I'm outside your apartment" notification, a "call me back I'm out of credit," or other things.
eg. Give me a toque when you get here and I'll come down and meet you.
4. es que... - sets off an excusal phrase.
eg. I would have had this finished seño, pero es que I'm not good at English.
5. olvidared - this represents the common Spanglish -ed past tense ending. This pattern is constructed by taking the Spanish infinitive and adding the -ed ending.
This verb indicates the past tense of the action in Spanish, albeit with the English ending. Best said with a heavy American accent.
eg. I was going to tell him to bring the movie but I olvidared it.
6. estudiaring - like the Spanglish past tense, this present perfect verb is formed by taking the Spanish infinitive and adding the English -ing ending.
eg. I was estudiaring some verbs when he gave me a toque.
7. No pasa nada - No worries.
eg. I was going to get all my visa paperwork in on time and correctly filled out, but the guy at the foreigner's office took a half hour break, no pasa nada.
8. tipical eSpanish - this English phrase, written phonetically, is used by Spaniards to describe when they do typical Spanish things such as making a delicious paella for a Sunday lunch, dancing sevillanas or flamenco, talking loudly on public transportation, or to demonstrate their extensive knowledge of English.
eg. El domingo vamos a la playa y luego a un chiringuito que conozco por alli en El Palo, es muy tipical eSpanish.
9. Ok - meaning Okay. The most global word.
eg. I'll be there in five minutes, ok?
10. Vale - meaning okay. Its use is required in a minimum of 80 percent of Spanglish phrases.
eg. Vale, vale vale, ok, vale, venga, I'll talk to you later.
11. I'm fine thank you, and you? - the best and/or only response to the question "How are you?"
eg. How are you class? (in unison) I'm fine thank you, and you? Well class, it's 12:30 on a Monday, you guys can't sit the ef down after recreo, and I haven't had anything to eat yet. I'm tired and hungry. But thank you for collectively asking.
12. mitin - this phonetical spelling of the word "meeting" is used to indicate a high-level reunion of government or business officials. Who says anglophones don't know how to take care of bizness, we invented the word!
eg. Ayer se celebró un mitin del PP.
13. caña - Spanglish for 20 cl. of domestic draft beer usually had among friends in local bars.
eg. Tomorrow we can go for cañas beforehand and then go to the movies.
14. clases particulares - not particular classes, but private classes. These are the ubiquitous hour-long conversation classes that auxiliars have to earn extra cash and keep teaching skills sharp.
eg. I can get there by 6, I have a clase particular at 4:30.
15. take a coffee - a literal translation of the Spanish "tomar un café" this phrase has seeped into the Spanish language by the "if you can´t beat em, join em" effect of clases particulares. After hearing it so many times, you begin to say it yourself, undermining your credibility as a native speaker.
eg. This weekend? Let´s see, I saw a movie, took a coffee with somes friends...
This is by no means an exhaustive list, but a beginner's guide to the Spanglish language. It is recommendable to quitar these words from your vocabulary before returning to your country of origin, talking with your parents, taking LSATs or GREs, or interviewing for a job (Overheard in a certain someone's interview on Friday: "I hear at your English summer camp you have an granja on site. Can you tell me more?" Well, es que I don't know when I will be flying home, sometime in August. Vale, pues, I'll let you know when I have the exact dates".) In just a few short weeks of living in Spain, you too can make mistakes in both your second and native language!
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